Triangular Winter Set

This lovely set was inspired by the beautiful yarn from Yarn Baby LLC and was so incredible to work with. Like, I want to make an entire king sized bed out of this type of material LOL And the colors? Intense and amazing right? Check out her stuff, it's amazing. - This color is called "The Blues" - This is officially the third color I've worked with from Yarn Baby and I've not been disappointed a single time!

Now, on to the pattern.

This set features fingerless gloves and a headwrap. The flower is a unique style that brings out something a little extra from this beautiful piece. You are bound to love it! While this pattern will work up well in any worsted weight material, I definitely recommend using Merino because it is soft and you will love it. My model who doesn't crochet or anything like that fell in love with the material because of how soft and warm it was! :)

The stitch makes these thick without being bulky and they work up quickly. It's a perfect pattern for all skill levels.

Find on Ravelry `and Etsy:

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"Getting Knotty" Head Wrap

Hook: I
Material: Red Heart Super Saver
Gauge: 2 rows = 1.5”
Size: Adult (can be altered for smaller sizes)

Special stitches:

-          V-stitch – dc, ch 1, dc all in same st

Abbreviations:

-          Ch – chain

-          Sc – single crochet

-          St – stitch

-          Dc – double crochet

Hints & Tips:

-          When doing color changes, make sure you keep your yarn on one side of the project. You need a “front” and a “back”. All of the yarn that is being carried along for color changes should be in the “back”.

-     To make a smaller size, do not make as many rows.So, for a toddler, I'd only make 55 rows rows.
-      To make this a headband, only crochet about 30-32 rows depending on your head size. 

With color A

Row 1) Ch 6, sc in 2^nd st from hook, sc to end

Row 2) Ch 2, dc in first st, change to color B, skip next st, v-stitch in next st, change to color A, skip next st, dc in last st

Row 3- 65) Repeat row 2

Row 66) Ch 1, sc in never st across – 5 sc

Join first and last row together to form a ring, with the right side of the project facing away from you, slip stitch or sew the two ends together. You want the seam facing in rather than out just like you would a clothing seam. 

How to Twist

Form a heart with your finished head wrap.

Cross the V of the heart so that it forms a circle within the heart. 

Twist the circle in the heart. 

Take the larger circle on the outside and the small circle on the inside and pull them so they are even. You will now have two loops that wrap around eachother. This is the "knot" look that you see in the photo at the top. 

Upside Down & Inside Out Set

Side A

Side B

This beautiful set is incredibly soft and warm! Side A is the original side and side B is one of the many things that make this set unique... it is reversible! There are many photos at the bottom designed to help you with some of the trickier stitches. Have fun making these little beauties! 

Upside Down & Inside Out - Wrist Warmers

Hook: I
Material: Red Heart Purple & White
Gauge: 4 rows sc = 1 inch, 3 rows (5,6 & 7, etc) = 1 inch
Size: One size fits all

Special stitches

-          Invisible join – drop loop from hook, insert hook into the stitch you want to join into, pick up dropped loop and pull it through

-          Front post – insert hook from front to back between the first and second stitch and then bring hook back to front (so the stitch is sitting on top of the bar of the hook), grab a loop and pull it through (if doing a dc, yarn over first)

-          Back post – insert your hook from back to front between the posts of the first and second stitch and then bring hook back to the back of the stitch (the stitch will sit on the back of the bar of the hook, opposite of the front post), grab a loop and pull it through (if doing a dc, yarn over first)

Abbreviations

-          Ch – chain

-          Sc – single crochet

-          St – stitch

-          Fpsc – front post single crochet

-          Bpsc – back post single crochet

-          Sl st – slip stitch

-          Dc – double crochet

-          Bpdc – back post double crochet

-          Fpdc – front post double crochet

Round 1) Ch 29, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in every st across – 28 sc

Round 2) Ch 1, sc in first st, *fpsc around next st, bpsc around next st* to last sc, sc in last st, join to first sc with sl st – 28 sc

Round 3) Ch 1,*bpsc around first st, fpsc around next st*around, join to first sc with sl st – 28 sc

Round 4) Repeat round 3

Round 5) Ch 2, dc in back loops of every st around, change to white in the last st, join with invisible join – 28 dc

Round 6) Ch 2, *2 fpdc around first dc, sk next dc* tie off. – 28 dc

Round 7) Pick up dropped purple from round 5 (you’ll be starting round 7 where you left off round 5 at), Ch 2, 2 bpdc in every unworked dc from previous round, join to first dc with sl st – 28 dc

Round 8) Ch 2, 1 dc in both loops in every st around, change to white in last st, join with invisible join – 28 dc

Round 9 - 16) Repeat round 6 -8 (ending on a repeat round 7)

Round 17) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 28 sc

Round 18) Ch 1, sc dec over first 2 sc, sc around, join to first st with sl st – 27 sc

Round 19) Ch 1, sc in every st around to last 2, sc dec over last 2 st, join to first st with sl st – 26 sc  

Round 20) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 26

Round 21a) Ch 1, sc in next 20, ch 4, join to first sc with sl st  (skipping 6 sc) – 20 sc            

Round 21b) Ch 1, Ch in next 3, ch 4, skip next 6 sc, sc to end, join to first sc with sl st – 20 dc

Round 22) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 20

Round 23) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 20

Round 24) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st - 20

Upside Down & Inside Out Head Wrap

Gauge: Entire width of front = 4”, entire width of back = 3”

Round 1) Ch 63, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in next 15, dc in next 30, sc in last 16 – 62 st

Round 2) Ch 1, sc in first st,* fpsc around next st, bpsc around next sc* until you reach 16 sc, *bpdc around first dc, fpdc around next dc* until you reach 30 dc, *bpsc around next sc, fpsc around next sc*until you reach the last sc, sc in last sc, end, join to first st with sc – 60 st

Round 3) Ch 1, sc in every sc until you have 16 sc, dc in ever dc until you have 30 dc, sc in every sc to end changing to white in last st, join to first using invisible join

Round 4) Ch 1, *2 fpsc around first sc, sk next st* until you have 16 fpsc , skip the last sc, *2 fpdc around first dc, sk next dc*until you have 30 fpdc, sk last dc, *2 fpsc around first sc, sk next st* until you have 16 fpsc, switch to purple in last st, join with invisible join  – 62 st

Round 5) Ch 1, *2 bpsc around unworked sc from row 3* until you have 16 sc, 2 bpdc around all unworked dc of row 3 until you have 30 dc, *2 bpsc around every unworked sc from row 3* until you have 16 sc, join with sl st – 62 st

Round 6) Ch 1, sc in next 16 sc, dc in next 30 dc, sc in last 16 sc, switch to white in last sc, join with invisible join – 62 st

Round 7) Repeat round 4

Round 8) Repeat round 5

Round 9) Repeat round 6

Round 10) Repeat round 4

Round 11) Repeat round 5

Round 12) Repeat round 2 – tie off

Hints & Tip

   It is very easy to drop a stitch in this project so make sure you count after every row

-            If you are off a stitch and don’t want to undo any work, you can get away with adding an extra stitch or two in the sc areas… just spread them out (this can be avoided by counting and figuring out where you lost a stitch though

-          When you are doing the stitches in the unworked stitches of 3, the very last sc is very hard to find and get your hook in but it is very important to get it! It is the very last stitch in row three that was used to join the row.

-          When you are doing the unworked row (so row 5) you are actually going behind the row of white and working in the unworked stitches as if the white row doesn’t exist.

       When I work a front post stitch, I picture the stitch on top of the hook and the hook stitcking out of either side of it almost like a person putting a stick over their shoulders/behind the neck. The neck is the stitch and the stick is the hook. For a back post stitch, the stick (or hook) would be in front of the neck (or stitch). I hope this helps! 

      The name of this set is called Upside Down & Inside Out because in order to get the appearance, you are literally flipping the round of white upside down! And the inside out part comes from the fact you can flip them inside out and they look very stylish and completley different! 

In order to do the invisible stitch, you join with the white before you finish the last stitch. Then you drop the white, put your hook through the stitch you are wanting to join to (the purple stitch) and pick up the dropped loop (the white) ...

Then you pull the white through the purple like above. 

This picture is how to start the stitches where you are picking up the unworked stitches that you skipped when doing the row of white. When you switch to the white, you just let the purple strand drop. To pick it up, slide the hook behind that stitch (which is an unworked stitch) and chain 2, then you do the 2 bpdc around it and continue on to the next unworked purple stitch. This is a good look at a back post stitch.

Head Wrap

***I would like to specify that this pattern was inspired by an image someone shared on facebook that popped up on my wall. I did not use a pattern to make this which is why this pattern is mine. There is a pattern that created a similar result out there which is how I came across the photo of it. That link is at the bottom. The owner of Moogly is very creative and I have mad respect for her designs! I will link the inspiration for this creation at the bottom of the page.*** 

Head Wrap

Hook: H
Material: Grey (Redheart or ILTY)

Special Stitches:

-          Chainless single crochet – ch 2, put hook in 2^nd ch from hook and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first loop on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (this is 1^st sc) – *Put hook in loop at the bottom of the sc you just made, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first loop on hook, yarn over and pull through both loops* repeat ** until you have reached the correct number of sc.

-          Invisible join – drop loop off of hook, insert hook into the first st, pick the dropped loop again and pull it through the first loop.

Round 1) Using the chainless sc technique, create a foundation row consisting of 15sc, 30dc and then 15 sc, join to first sc with the invisible join – 60 st

Round 2) Ch 1, *fpsc around first st, bpsc around next sc* until you reach first dc, *bpdc around first dc, fpdc around next dc* until you reach next sc, *bpsc around first sc, fpsc around next sc* to end, chang to pink, join to first fpsc with invisible join – 60 st

Round 3) Ch 1, sc in first 15 st, dc in next 30 st, sc in last 15 st, join to first sc with invisible join – 60 st

Round 4) Repeat round 3 but change to grey in last stitch

Round 5) Ch 1, bpsc in every sc, bpdc in every dc until you reach the end (15 bpsc, 30 bpdc, 15 bpsc) and then join with invisible join – 60 st

Round 6) Ch 1, sc in next 15 sc, dc in next 30 dc, sc in last 15 sc, change to pink in last st, join to first sc with invisible join – 60 st

Round 7) Repeat round 5

Round 8) Repeat round 6

Round 9) With grey, ch 1, sc in the first 15 sc, dc in the next 30 dc, 15 sc in the last 15 sc, join with invisible join

Round 10) Repeat round 2 and tie off. 


Unknowingly inspired by Moogly's All grown up. That pattern can be viewed at: http://www.mooglyblog.com/all-grown-up-ear-warmer/

The end result is similar (main differences are the start, finish and back of the designs), just different ways of getting there. Enjoy!