Showing posts with label bead work. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bead work. Show all posts

Monday, April 21, 2014

Using Seed Beads in Crochet Tutorial - 2 Methods

 I love working with seed beads. They are tiny and dainty so they don't take away from the crochet part of the work I do. I absolutely love the subtle and stylish look they add to crochet!

Below you will find two methods to get size 6/0 seed beads on regular, medium (4) sized yarn! One is for those who don't have the special needle and the other is for those who want to get it. The amount of time it saves you is amazing but this way, you'll have options! I live in a town that only has a wal-mart and had I not discovered this needle before moving away from the big city I would never have known about it!

The first method I share will be the easier method. The second method will be the trickier method but doesn't require the needle which is harder to find unless you have a good sized craft store near by. After the second tutorial check out a few patterns I have designed that either use this technique or would look amazing coupled with this technique!

The 1st Method (the easier way because the best should never be last ;):

My supplies

For this tutorial I chose some light colored yarn and beads because I have the darker brown contrast behind them. 
  • You'll need scissors. This pair I found at wal-mart for about $5 bucks and they are incredible. They are small so they fit into my hook case and they cut yarn perfectly! 
  • You'll need a big eye beading needle. Their are TONS of beading needles out there but this one is perfect for yarn because it is two super thing needles put together. You can pull them apart just enough to get the yarn through easily. I've used other needles before but I'd always have to split the yarn and put in one half first and then the other half second to make it work. This is SO much easier. I got this pack of 2 (because I get aggressive with my beads and break my needles LOL) from Jo-Anns for right around $5-6 bucks. If you have a 40% off coupon (and they aren't already on sale) you can get quite a steal on them! 
  • You'll of course need seed beads. There are a couple of different bead sizes and I prefer the 6/0. Any samller and I don't think they'd fit on the yarn. 
  • Last, you will of course need the yarn! I used Red Heart Super Saver (worsted weight medium/4) for this tutorial. 

This photo shows the first step you have to take in order to get the beads to slide onto the yarn smoothly. When you put the yarn through the needle, you'll fold it in half. That means you don't just have to get the bead over ONE piece of yarn, you actually have to get it over two. So, I stretch the yarn. If you look at the right side of the image you'll see that the yarn has been pulled tight and is half the size of the yarn on the left. 

To achieve this, pick a spot near the end of the yarn and pull. You do not want to break it, of course but it will feel like you're about to! What's great about this step is that if your yarn does happen to break (pulling it like this does make it more fragile), all you have to do is restretch the piece at the end and you're good to go. 

Because it is difficult to pull on the VERY end of the yarn, I pulled about a couple of inches from the end and then trimmed that part off. 

If you click the photo to enlarge it you'll see the little split between the two needles. It's a pretty neat needle! 


For the sake of the tutorial, I wanted to show an image of a single bead being put on the needle and pushed onto the yarn. It was very effortless. Seed beads are not all symetrical. You'll have some that are larger or smaller. So, if you get a bead that won't slide on with ease when most of them will, it's probably that bead. Just don't use it. I have a bead file where I can actually grind the inside of the bead just enough to make it work but even then, I usually will just discard it. 


You do not have to do one bead at a time! Of course, if you don't and one won't fit on, you have to take all of your beads off of the needle. It still makes it go much faster then doing one bead at a time though!

Also, as you can see in this photo, the yarn at the top together looks to be the same size as the yarn towards the side of the image. This really demonstrates the importance of stretching the yarn. When you double it, it doesn't actually double! 


Method 2 (if you don't have a way of getting a big eye beading needle): 


It's important to take note that this way is much more time consuming and tricker then the other method. I've broken my fair share of beads this way! But it will get the job done. The required material in this method is a small steel crochet hook that you should be able to find at walmart (and almost everyone has one of those! hehe) - I use a size 11 hook but you can change the size of the hook based on what you are comfortable with. I personally want to use the largest size possible because the larger the hook, the easier it will be to hook the yarn without tearing it. 


For this next step, check out the picture in the first method. You'll want to stretch the yarn. It will make the strands squeeze together better and give the hook a better chance of holding on. As you can see in the image, I literally fold the yarn around the hook and then I pull that through a bead. Sometimes I can get it to go through two beads at once to speed the time up but not always. And like in the first method, some beads will not fit. Its best just to not use those ones. 


And here it is, on the yarn. You can actually see in this image the stretched yarn opposed to the "normal" yarn. Stretching is key regardless of which method you use!! 

Projects you can use this technique on below: 


The free pattern for this beautiful ribbed sun hat can be found here



This beautiful hat would look beautiful adorned in a matching pattern of beads around the last round of the brim! This free pattern can be found here


This beautiful little pattern coems in three different styles/lengths and all in one pattern! This paid pattern can be found here

This technique works will with more designs then just hats and you can use it for other beads as well! These little pearls make these booties absolutely precious. This paid pattern is available in an eBook that can be found here

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and are able to apply it to all sorts of different crochet projects! I know I sure have and will continue to do so! 











Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Cherry Blossom Backpack

Hook: E, H & I

Materials: Red Heart Super Saver (light blue, light pink and off white), 6/0 seed beads (dark pink), hot glue, yarn sewing needle

Gauge: Non-essential – a larger hook creates a larger backpack and vice versa  

Hints & Tips:
-          Beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch anywhere in the pattern
-     Instructions for a larger size at the bottom

Abbreviations:
-          Ch – chain
-          Hdc – half double crochet
-          Sl st – slip stitch
-          St – stitch
-          Dc – double crochet
-          Sc – single crochet
-          Trc – triple (or treble) crochet

Bag (with I hook):
Round 1) Ch 7, 4 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (ch 2 counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 ch, 5 hdc in last ch, 3 hdc on other side, join to ch 2 with sl st – 16 hdc

Round 2) Ch 1, 2 hdc in next 5 st, hdc in next 3 st, 2 hdc in next 5 st, hdc in last 3 st, join to first hdc with sl st – 26 hdc

Round 3) Ch 1, *hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st* 5 times, hdc in next 3 st, repeat *-* five times again, hdc in last 3 st – 36 hdc

Round 4) Ch 1, *hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next st* 5 times, hdc in next 3 st, repeat *-* five times again, hdc in last 3 st – 46 hdc

Round 5) Ch 1, *hdc in next 3 st, 2 hdc in next st* 5 times, hdc in next 3 st, repeat *-* five times again, hdc in last 3 st – 56 hdc

Round 6) Ch 1, *hdc in next 4 st, 2 hdc in next st* 5 times, hdc in next 3 st, repeat *-* five times again, hdc in last 3 st – 66 hdc

Round 7 - 29) Ch 1, hdc in every st around, join to first hdc with sl st (in last round join to first st with sl st) – 66 hdc

Round 30) Ch 1, hdc in same st as joining, *ch 1, sk next st, hdc in next st* around, join to first hdc with sl st – 33 hdc, 33 ch 1 sp

Row 1 - Drawstring) Ch 1, sl st into first ch 1 sp, ch 78, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and all the way down ch, sl st into same sp that you started in, tie off – 77 sl st
Weave chain in and out of ch 1 spaces ending in the same space you started the chain in. (You can make this step shorter so you don't have long of a chain when you pull it tight, that is up to you. 

Straps (with H hook & make 2):
Row 1) Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to end – 3 sc

Row 2 - 55) Ch 1, sc in every st across – 3 sc

Flowers (With E hook & make 13):
Round 1) Using magic circle, ch 1, 5 sc in circle, pull tight, join to first sc with sl st – 5 sc

Round 2) *Ch 1, dc, trc, dc in same st as joining, sl st into next st*around, sl st into first st, tie off – 5 petals

Trunk/Branches (With I hook):
With two strands, ch 35, drop one loop from your hook and ch 11, drop that loop off your hook, go back to first dropped loop and ch 14 with it as well. Tie off both strands. Make two more of these.
Twist the 3 trunks together to form a thicker truck. The branches will be secured under flowers after you have the trunk positioned onto the back pack.

Putting it all together:
You can sew everything on or use hot glue (I went the hot glue route do to it being easier).

Flowers: You are going to put the flowers upside down so the WRONG side will be visible. Using hot glue, glue a group of darker pink beads into the center of each one. I went with three different types of beads for appearance.

Bag positioning: Using the bottom of your bag, flatten it to where it is long ways.

Trunk: Take the three pieces of your trunk. You’re going to wrap them around one another and place them on the bag. I glued them as I wrapped them because it made it easier to visualize how the trunk was turning out. I would only glue every couple of inches though so I could manipulate the trunk pieces to perfect after it was in place. I wanted my trunk to come up from the bottom and up along the side, but not directly on the fold so that a few branches could curl around but most of the tree/flowers would be visible on one side.

Branches: Scatter your branches where you want them/think they look right.

Flowers (again): Put glue on the flower (unless you’re sewing them) and place it on a branch locking the branch in place via the flower. Once all flowers are placed (I used 12 of them) check to make sure all branches are secure. If not use a little more thread/glue.

Adjustable chain: Glue a flower at the end of the chain that opens and closes the backpack. This will keep it from every sliding out. If you want to still be able to slide it out, I suggest modifying the flower and sewing a button to the chain so the button can allow the flower to be put on and off.


Straps: Flip backpack over, line up where you want the straps and sew them into place securely. 

I'm sharing this extra photo just because of how much I love it. Lol my daughter is the perfect little model :p

***Instructions to make a larger bag - Increase the ch by 2 so that you'll have 5 hdc between each half circle end instead of 3, add an extra increase round and then add a few more hdc rounds to make it longer. Make the straps as long as needed.***

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Ribbed Sun Hat

Slip Stitch Edge done with RH Shimmer for ridges

Beaded Edge done with RHSS only

Hook: I
Material: Red Heart Super Saver & Red Heart Shimmer (optional, can be done with just RHSS)
Gauge: 4 rows & 6 stitches = 2 inches

Size: 6-12 months

With A (main color):
Round 1) Using a magic circle, ch 2, *dc in circle, change to B, dc in circle, change to A*until you have 12 st in circle, join to first dc with sl st – 12 dc; 6 A, 6 B

Round 2) Ch 2, *2 dc in next st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 18 dc; 12 A, 6B

Round 3) Ch 2, *2 dc in next 2 st, change to B, fpdc around nxt st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 30 dc; 24 A, 6 B

Round 4) Ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next 2 st, dc in next st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 42 dc; 30 A, 6 B

Round 5 - 12) Ch 2, *dc in next 6 st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join with sl st – 42 dc

Round 13) Ch 1, sl st in first st, sl st in next st, ch 1 *sc in back loop of next 4 st, ch 3, skip next 3 st*to end, join to first sc with sl st – 24 sc; 6 ch 3 spaces

Round 14) Ch 1, *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* to end, join to first sc with sl st – 49 sc

Round 15) Ch 1, * sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* to end, join to first sc with sl st – 56 sc

Round 16) Ch 1, * sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* to end, join to first sc with sl st – 63 sc

Round 17) Ch 1, * sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next st* to end, join to first sc with sl st – 70 sc

Round 18) Ch 1, * sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st* to end, join to first sc with sl st – 77 sc


Size: 2-3T

With A: 
Round 1) Using Magic circle, Ch 2, *dc in circle, change to B, dc in circle, change to A* until you have 12 dc, join to first dc with sl st – 12 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, *dc between next st, dc in next st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 18 dc

Round 3) Ch 2, *dc between next 2 st, dc in next st, dc between next 2 st, dc in next st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 30 dc

Round 4) Ch 2, * dc in next 2 st, dc between next 2 st, dc in next 2 st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 36 dc

Round 5) Ch 2, *dc between next 2 st, dc in next 5 st, dc between next 2 st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* to end, join to first dc with sl st – 48 dc

Round 6 - 13) Ch 2, *dc in next 7 st, change to B, fpdc around next st, change to A* join to first dc with sl st – 48 dc

Round 14) Ch 1, sl st to next st, ch 1 *sc in next 5 st (in back loop only), ch 3, sk next 3 st (color A, color B, color A stitch so the ribbing is in the center of the skipped st)* join to first sc with sl st – 48 st

Round 15) Ch 1, *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first sc with sl st – 56 sc

Round 16) Ch 1, *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first sc with sl st – 64 sc

Round 17) Ch 1, *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first sc with sl st – 72 sc

Round 18) Ch 1, *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first sc with sl st – 80 sc

Round 19) Ch 1, *sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first sc with sl st – 88 sc

Optional edging on BOTH sizes:

Slip stitch edging – With color B, join in tie off and sl st in every st around – tie off.


Beaded edging – Add about 18 beads (extra, just in case), when you are on the last round in the beanie you will add a bead in the first of every 2 sc (the increasing stitches), this will place the bead over the second stitch. Refer to images. Use Crocheting with Seed Beads Tutorial for help. 

Friday, March 8, 2013