Ring Around the Hearts Beanie

I have a new free crochet pattern for you all today :) This one even has a bit of a story behind it! As many of you who follow my blog know, I've been doing graph patterns for nearly a year! My very first was the Emy's Beanie which can be found HERE. Since that pattern I've come out with tons of other graph hats! A truck hat for the boys, a shamrock hat, a paw print hat, an Easter symbols hat, and a princess crown hat all of which can be found for free on my blog!

Well, anyways, this one took some figuring out. It's the first in a line of five graph hats I'll be releasing for Valentine's Day (so keep your eyes peeled) and the hearts through me for a bit of a loop at first. I tried upside right, upside down and didn't like that. so I decided to flip them all upside right. This has is one of my favorites and I can't wait to share the rest with you!

Want to hear a special secret? This picture is extra special because today is my daughter's 4th birthday! Not only is she modeling the new hat for me, but this is her 4th birthday picture! <3 

Like this pattern a whole aweful lot? Buy the PDF for just $2.50 and save it to your Ravelry library forever. Then, if I ever discontinue the pattern... you'll never lose it! In addition to that, the PDF includes the drawn graph for those of you who prefer it to the written instructions. Buy your copy HERE.

Hook: I (for toddler) & J (for older children/adults)

Material: Red Heart Super Saver
Gauge: 3 st & 3 rounds = 1” (with I hook)

Hints & Tips:

-          This hat is worked from the top to the bottom – this means that you will sew round 1 together to form the top of the hat.

-          It is normal for the hat to curl as you work it.

-          When working round 11 & 21 use THIS tutorial to help you get the same look to your stitches as mine – otherwise your MC will bleed through your contrast colors and the lines won’t look neat and crisp.

Round 1) Using magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc, pull tight and join to first st with sl st – 12 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, 2 fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 24 dc

Round 3) Ch 2, *fpdc around next st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 36 dc

Round 4) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sls t – 48 dc

Round 5) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 6 – 9) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 10) Ch 2, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, *change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next st* around ending with CC, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 11) Still working with CC, Ch 2, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next st* around ending with a MC, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 12) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 13) Ch 2, fpdc around next st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st*, repeat from *-* 7 times, fpdc around last 3 st, change to CC in last st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 14) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st,  change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC*, repeat 7 times, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around last st, change back to CC,  join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 15) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC*, repeat from *-* 7 times, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around last st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 16) Ch 2, fpdc around next st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st*, repeat from *-* 7 times (except the last repeat will only have 2 fpdc in the MC), change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc in last st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 17) Ch 2, fpdc around next 2 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 5 st*, repeat from *-* 7 times, fpdc in last 2 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 18) Ch 2, fpdc around next 3 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 7 st*, repeat from *-* 7 times, fpdc in last st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 19) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 20) Repeat round 10

Round 21) Repeat round 11

Round 22) Repeat round 12 and tie off. 

Braids & Cables Beanie & Cowl Set

I'm going to release a pattern early today... and it is officially the FIRST free crochet pattern I'm listing that uses the Battle of the Stitches Round 3 stitch! This pattern is easy to figure out and works up quickly. A link to a tutorial video is provided below and the hints & tips section will give you some extra help too!

Scroll down for the free patterns... want to save the pattern to your Ravelry library or print it off easily? Buy it on Ravelry for just $2.50 HERE.

Hook: J
Material: Red Heart with Love
Gauge: 3 dc & 2 rounds (1 sc + 1 dc) = 1”

Hints & Tips:

-          The sc round gets skipped over when working the front post stitches. You can see a tutorial video HERE.

-          The cowl/scarf is designed to be approximately 72” long at the gauge written. The gauge isn’t super important with the cowl unless you want it to be the same size as the one in the photo taken. The gauge IS important with the hat.

-          When measuring the cowl’s gauge, I stretched it out to its normal length. The cables make it seem a little “tighter” than it is and made a sc and dc round right under an inch. Once I stretched it out a bit, it fit the gauge I wrote which is the same gauge as the hat.

-          The hat is designed to be unisex. I did not add a pom-pom to the one in the photo but that is an excellent option!

-          The hat is a little tricky. Round 4 has less stitches than round 3 and this might throw you off. It is correct. The reason being the cable stitches are worked OVER round 3 and into round 2. Round 3’s increases are just used as a filler round and to increase the hat size. The stitch counts are correct.

-     This pattern is sized in adult only.

Special Stitches:

-          Braid - BR – sk next st, fptrc in each of next 2 sts, working in front of last 2 sts, fptrc in skipped st

-          Front Post Triple Crochet – fptrc – YO 2x, insert hook around post of specified st (the post will be towards the front of the hook, not behind it) and draw up a loop, *YO and throw through 2 loops on hook* 3 times

Abbreviations/stitches:

-          Ch – chain

-          Dc – double crochet

-          Sl st – slip stitch

-          Fpdc – front post double crochet

-          St – stitch

-          Sc – single crochet

-          Bpdc – back post double crochet

-          BR – braid

-          Fptrc – front post triple/treble crochet

Beanie:

Round 1) Using magic circle, ch 2, 15 dc in circle, pull tight and join to first st with sl st – 15 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, 2 fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 30 dc

Round 3) Ch 1, sc in 1^st st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 45 sc

Round 4) Ch 2, dc in same 1^st st, fptrc around first dc from round 2, BR, fptrc around next dc, dc in next 2 st, *fptrc around next dc from round 2, BR, fptrc around next dc from round 2, dc in next 2 st* around ending with a dc in last st of round 3, join to first st with sl st – 42 st – 6 BR

Round 5) Ch 1, sc in 1^st st and next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 48 sc

Round 6) Ch 2, dc in 1^st st, dc in next st, fptrc around fptrc, BR, fptrc around fptrc, dc in next 4 st, *fptrc around fptrc, BR, fptrc around fptrc, dc in next 4 st* around ending with 2 dc, join to first st with sl st – 54 st

Round 7) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 54 sc

Round 8) Ch 2, dc in 1^st 2 st, *fptrc around fptrc, BR, fptrc around fptrc, dc in next 4 st* around ending with 2 dc, join to first st with sl st – 54 st

Round 9) Ch 1, sc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 54 sc

Round 10 - 21) Repeat rounds 8 & 9

Round 22) Ch 1, turn (so that the front of your stitches are facing the inside of the hat), dc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 54 dc

Round 23) Ch 1, fpdc around 1^st st, bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 54 dc

Round 24 – 25) Repeat round 23 and then tie off at end of round 25

Fold last four rounds over so that the right sides of the stitches face out.

Cowl/Scarf:

Row 1) Ch 22, turn and sc in 2^nd ch from hook and across – 21 sc

Row 2) Ch 1, turn, dc in every st across – 21 dc

Row 3) Ch 1, turn, sc in every st across – 21 sc

Row 4) Ch 1, turn, dc in 1^st st, fptrc around 2^nd dc of round 2, BR, fptrc around next dc of round 2, dc in next 9 st, fptrc around dc of round 2, BR, fptrc around dc of round 2, dc in last st – 21 st

Row 5) Ch 1, turn, sc in every st across – 21 sc

Row 6) Ch 1, turn, dc in 1^st st, fptrc around fptrc, BR, fptrc around fptrc, dc in next 9 st, fptrc around fptrc, BR, fptrc around fptrc, dc in last st – 21 st

Row 7 - 143) Repeat rows 5 & 6 ending with row 143 being a repeat of row 5

For cowl, face right sides of cowl together and slip st the last row and the first row together before tying off.

For scarf, tie off and weave in ends or add fringe to the bottom.  

Faye's Beanie

How about a brand new pattern? This pattern, named after my daughter because she was the inspiration behind it, is super cute and includes a toddler/young child size AND a teen/adult size!

It works up quickly, has a super stretchy brim and will make a wonderful gift for those you know who love beanies! It's a little thicker than the average beanie with an awesome texture and feel to it. :)

Check it out at Ravelry and Etsy (coming soon).

Ravelry

Princess Graph Hats

Hook: I

Material: Worsted Weight Yarn (4) – like RHSS or ILTY
Gauge: 3 rows & 4 stitches = 1”

Hints & Tips:

-          Ch 2 doesn’t count as a st in any round

-          Don’t worry if the hat buckles a bit in the beginning, as you work down the rounds, it rounds out.

-          Giant kudos to the talented crocheting mama over at Stitched After Dark for making up these hats for me so I didn’t have too! I love it when I get to work with this lady. She saved me a bunch of time by making the item so I only had to write the pattern and make the graph! 

-          I only designed the hats and the graph, I did not design the braid. Go HERE to see how that lovely designer did it!

Abbreviations/Stitches:

-          MC – main color

-          CC – contrast color

-          Ch – chain

-          Dc – double crochet

-          Sl st – slip stitch

-          Fpdc – front post double crochet

-          Fpsc – front post single crochet

Size: Child – Toddler (1 – 3.5/4 years)   

Round 1) With MC - Using magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc in circle, pull tight and join to first dc with sl st – 12 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, 2 fpdc around every st around, join to first dc with sl st – 24 dc

Round 3) Ch 2, *fpdc around next st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st  - 36 dc

Round 4) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 48 dc

Round 5) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 60 dc

Round 6 - 13) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first dc with sl st – 60 dc

Round 14) Ch 2, fpdc around first 29 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 15) Ch 2, fpdc around first 21 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 6 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 6 st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 16) Ch 2, fpdc around first 15 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 17) Ch 2, fpdc around first 14 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, change to CC in last st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 18 – 20) Ch 2, fpdc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 21) With MC, ch 2, fpdc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 22) Ch 1, fpsc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 sc

Side: Teen/Adult

Round 1) With MC - Using magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc in circle, pull tight and join to first dc with sl st – 12 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, 2 fpdc around every st around, join to first dc with sl st – 24 dc

Round 3) Ch 2, *fpdc around next st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st  - 36 dc

Round 4) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 48 dc

Round 5) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 60 dc

Round 6) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 4 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 72 dc

Round 7 - 15) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first dc with sl st – 72 dc

Round 16) Ch 2, fpdc around first 35 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 17) Ch 2, fpdc around first 27 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 6 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 6 st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 18) Ch 2, fpdc around first 21 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 4 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 19) Ch 2, fpdc around first 20 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, change to CC in last st, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 20 - 22) Ch 2, fpdc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 23) With MC, ch 2, fpdc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 72 dc

Round 24) Ch 1, fpsc in every st around, join to first st with sl st – 72 sc

"Dressin' Up" Shawlette

This yarn, Red Heart Boutique Swanky, was an interesting one to work with. It's look is incredible (as you can see) with the sparkly bits adding a unique texture and look to the item. With that aside, you simply can't be disappointed in this dainty material. It will fancy up any pattern you work up with it. I designed this pattern for it for a couple of reasons. 

First off, I wanted to offer you all a 1 skein pattern for this material. Sometimes you have just a little bit of something and don't want to buy anymore of it. This pattern was designed with that in mind! 

Second off, the material screamed "lacy" to me. With the sparkle pieces and the thin threads that its made off, I just knew it needed to be made flexible and holey. And that is exactly what I did.

Finally, I wanted to experiment with extended triple crochet type stitches. This one doesn't YO twice but FIVE times to create a much longer stitch. Check the free pattern out below - and do make sure you scroll all the way to the bottom to see what else was released this week!

Hook: I
Material: Red Heart Boutique Swanky – 1 skein
Gauge: 10.5” wide X 38” long

Special Stitches:

-         Ex5trc – YO 5 times, insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop, *YO, pull through first 2 loops on hook* 6 times

o   It is much like a triple crochet that is longer ;)

Alternate size:

-         To make larger, add an addition 34 sc to row 1 and continue repeating rows 3 – 6 until you have the desired length. This will require more material. Instructions given require just 1 skein. 2 skeins would give you about a 20” wide X 67” long shawlette

Row 1) Create chainless foundation of 35 sc  – 35 sc

Row 2) Ch 6, ex5trc in 1^st st, *ch 1, sk next st, ex5trc* across – 35 st

Row 3) Ch 1, sc in 1^st st, sc in next ch 1 sp, 2 sc in every st across until the last st, sc in last st – 35 st

Row 4 - 5) Ch 1, turn, sc in every st across – 35 st

Row 6) Ch 6, ex5trc in 1^st st, *ch 1, sk next st, ex5trc* across – 35 st

Row 7 – 56) Repeat rows 3 – 6

Row 57) Repeat row 3 and tie off.

I added a flower to attach the ends of the cowl (I just glued it on to one corner of the shawlette so the other side could loop over it. The options here are numerous! 

Also released this week: 

Click picture to go to pattern page.

Click picture to go to patterns page.

Nothin' But Loops Cowl

Get the pattern at Ravelry or Etsy linked below.

Ravelry

Or 

Etsy

The beautiful cowl you see adorning this lovely ladies neck is a one skein cowl made with Red Heart Medley. 

Medley is one of Red Heart's newest materials and is absolutely beautiful! The material is soft, it is thick and it is squishy... in my books, that makes it perfect for anything you want to wear! This material runs just under $6 bucks a skein on Red Heart's Website  which really makes this cowl even better because you'll only need one skein! 

Now, enough about the material, let's talk about the pattern! This pattern has an elegant look to it. It's warm, it utilizes the thickness of the material and accents it! Regardless of your skill level, you'll enjoy working up this cowl and it would make a great project to sell or gift! 

The pattern includes two different ways to join or you can just sew the ends together. What's really nice about this cowl is, if you'd like to get another 2-3 skeins of the material, it would make a gorgeous scarf! Two different projects out of just one pattern always makes life nice ;) 

"Spiraling Out of Control" Beanie

Not only will you be getting an awesome new FREE crochet pattern today... you'll also be getting a rad yarn review of Red Heart Reflective Yarn.

Designing this hat was my first time using it and I really want to design more with it! As I worked with it, endless design possibilities ran through my head. How much I enjoyed working with this material actually surprised me, though. When I first saw it advertised, it didn't catch my interest. I thought it was cool but didn't think I'd have much use for it. I'm kind of a "stick to material I know" kind of girl Plus, I thought the metallic piece might end up feeling scratchy.

I was pleased to learn that I couldn't have been more wrong, though! This material is actually very soft, has great stretch to it and can serve a ton of purposes. This particular hat was designed with the walking college students in mind. Come winter, when the sun isn't up as long, having some reflective head gear that serves the dual purpose of keeping you warm is exactly what you're going to want! Drivers won't be able to miss you and the hat is very soft.

My husband (as this hat will work well for men too), mother-in-law, sister-in-law and cousin (who doubled as the beautiful model you see) all loved the hat! My mother-in-law actually described it as squishy, it was so soft! She put it on and after a while I had to take it off of her so I could go get pictures and her words were "Oops, I forgot it was on".

Not only will you love Red Heart Reflective Yarn but now you have a new pattern to use it with! You can check it out at Red Heart's website HERE. Now on to the free pattern and check out the bottom of the page for a few more photos modeling it!

Special Stitches:

-          Side bar stitch – dc in indicated st, dc around post of the dc you just made – counts as 2 dc

-          Front Post Side Bar Stitch – FPDC in indicated st (should be the 2^nd st of the previous rounds side bar stitch), dc around post of the dc you just made – counts as 2 dc

-          Secure stitch – sc2tog working in previously worked st and next unworked st (this way you are doing a decrease stitch but you aren’t actually decreasing)

Hints & Tips:

-          Continue rounds 5-11 until you have 13 rows for a slightly slouch beanie or until you have 15 rows for a longer slouch beanie.

-          When working the brim, you will be slip stitching in the back loops only which creates a very stretchy “knit-like” band. At the top, you ch 1 to turn, at the bottom, the secure stitch counts as a ch 1.

-          Continue on with rounds 5-11 until you have 13 to 15 rounds for a slouch beanie.

-     Please pay close attention to gauge. The bulky material and large hook make for a very large gauge and stretchy hat. 

Hook: K

Material: Red Heart Reflective (Grey)

Gauge: 2 st & 1 row = 1" 

Round 1) Using magic circle, complete 6 side bar stitches in circle, pull tight and join to first dc with sl st – 12 dc (6 side bar stitches)

Round 2) Ch 2, side bar st in same st as joining, fp side bar st around next st (2^nd st in the previous rounds side bar st), *side bar st in next st, fp side bar st around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 24 dc (12 side bar stitches)

Round 3) Ch 2, dc in same st as joining, fp side bar st around next st, *dc in next st, fp side bar st around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 36 dc (12 side bar stitches, 12 dc)

Round 4) Ch 2, dc in same st as joining, dc in next st, fp side bar st around next st, *dc in next 2 st, fp side bar st around next st* around, join to first dc with sl st – 48 dc (12 side bar stitches, 24 dc)

Round 5 - 11) Sl st into next st, ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, dc in next st, fp side bar st around next st, sk next st, *dc in next 2 st, fp side bar st around next st, sk next st* around, join to first dc with sl st and do NOT tie off – 48 dc (12 side bar stitches, 24 dc)

Brim:

Row 1) Ch 5, sl st in back loop of ch back down to base of hat, secure st – 4 sl st

Row 2) Turn, sl st back up ch in back loops only, ch 1 at top, turn, sl st back down in back loops only, secure st – 4 sl st

Row 3 – 48) Repeat row 2 until you reach the very first row, join last row and first row with sl st and then tie off. 

Also released this week: 

Click picture to go to pattern.

Diagonal Shell Slouch Beanie

Wear it over your hair like this... 

Or stick your hair in it like this!

Hook: K
Material: Red Heart Super Saver
Gauge: 8” across by 10” long – brim stretches to a width of 12” (circumference of 24”)

Hints & Tips:

-          The hat looks small. The point of this pattern is that it stretches a lot. It only measures 8” across but the brim can stretch all the way around an adult head when done correctly.

Stitches:

-          Trc – triple (or treble) crochet

-          Sl st – slip stitch

-          Ch – chain

-          St – stitch

-          Sp – space

Special stitches:

-          Trc v-stitch – trc, ch 1, trc all in one space

-          Trc shell – 5 trc in one space

-          Secured st – 2 sc together WITHOUT decreasing  so you’ll sc2tog, do the slip stitches and then sc the 2^nd of the previous secured st and one new st together – pictures to help at bottom

Round 1) With color A - Using magic circle, 12 trc, pull tight, join to first trc with sl st – 12 trc

Round 2) With color B – Join in space between trc, ch 3 (does not count as a st here and throughout), trc v-stitch in every sp around, join to first trc with sl st – 12 trc v-stitch

Round 3) With color A – Join in ch 1 sp of v-stitch, ch 3, 3 trc in every ch 1 sp around, join to first trc with sl st – 36 trc

Round 4) With color B – Join in 2^nd trc of any set of 3 trc, ch 3, *2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in same st, skip next 2 st* around, join to first trc with sl st

Round 5) With color A – Ch 3 in any ch 2 sp, *trc shell in ch 2 sp, sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3* around, join to first trc with sl st – 6 shells, 6 sc, 6 ch 3 spaces

Round 6) Sl st over to sc, ch 3, *trc shell st in sc, sc in 2^nd ch of ch 3 sp, ch 5* around, join to first trc with sl st

Round 7 – 11) Repeat round 6 )EXCEPT you will sc in the 3^rd ch of the ch 5 instead of the 2nd ch of the ch 3 sp and - you will still shell in the sc)  – tie off at end of round 11

Brim:

With color B – Join in same st as tie off – make a secure st (working in back loop and 3^rd loop only), ch 6, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook and down, *make a secure st (counts as a ch 1), turn, sl st back up ch in back loop only, ch 1, sl st back down in back loop only* all the way around the hat – when you get to the ch 5 sp, you’ll skip 2 ch attaching the last trc of the shell to the 3^rd ch of the ch 5 and then you’ll do another secured st from that 3^rd ch to the first trc of the next shell (skipping the next 2 ch).

This example shows the secured st being placed into the 3^rd ch (remember, you skip the first 2 and last 2 of the ch 5). As you can see in the image, a loop has already been pulled up from the previously worked st and the hook has been inserted under both loops of the ch sp (which will leave the back hump on the other side of the hook). 

This image shows the same step as the one above but where the hook goes in the other stitches. You can see two white loops on the hook as the first part of the secured stitch has already been done. Then you see two purple loops on the hook… the back loop of the stitch and then the third loop. Next to the hook head, you can see a faint line where another third loop is. 

And here we see a completed “secured” stitch. The secured st is done in two part. The first sc and the second sc that are then “tied” together. This will typically decrease a project but by putting the first part of the secured st in the same st as the second part of the previous secured st, we aren’t decreasing at all because it equals 1 sc in every st. 

ZigZag Swimsuit Cover

Hook: G & I
Material: I Love This Cotton
Gauge: 9 sl st Rows = 2”

Hints & Tips:

-          In the chest piece, the sc2tog serves the same purpose as the ch 1 at the end of every sl st row

-          In the chest piece, when you sc2tog, you will work in the previous worked ch and the next ch so you don’t lose any stitches.

-          The chest is the only gauge that is important, the skirt you want loose and can adjust length to preference.
-     For the neck tie, you will ch until the desired length (22" for the toddler, for example) and then sl st back down the ch (I used two colors, one for the chain and one for the slip stitch back down) - then you pull it through two rows of sl st in the center of the chest piece, it should not be visible in the front. 

Special Stitches:

BegTrpCl – Begin Treble Cluster – Ch 3, [YO twice, put hook in st, pull up a loop, *YO, pull through two loops on hook* twice], once you have 3 loops on your hook, YO and pull through all loops – repeat *-* while doing stitch and then repeat [] twice.

TrCl – Treble Cluster - , [YO twice, put hook in st, pull up a loop, *YO, pull through two loops on hook* twice] until you have  loops on your hook, YO and pull through all loops - repeat *-* while doing stitch and then repeat [] three times.

Tr V-stitch – Treble V-stitch – Treble stitch, ch 1, treble stitch

Toddler size (3-4T)

Chest Piece:  G hook
Round 1) With color A - Ch 81, join to first ch with a sl st to form a ring, make sure you don’t twist – 80 ch

Row 1) Ch 1, sc2tog, ch 23, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook and in every ch down, ch 1, sl st back down row – 22 sl st

Row 2) Sc2tog, sl st in 2^nd st from hook, sl st to end, ch 1, sl st back down row

Row 3 – 79) Repeat row 2

Row 80) Sc2tog (the last ch and the first ch), sl st in both the row 1 and row 79 to the top, tie off.

Turn project over and work in opposite end of chain.

Round 1) Join in back of project, ch 1, *sc in next 7 ch, 2 sc in next ch* around, join color B in last st, join to first st with sl st – 90 sc

Skirt: I hook

Round 1) With color B, join in back, BegTrCl, ch 1, skip 2 st, *TrCl, ch 1, sk 2 st* around, join to  BegTrCl with sl st, tie off -  30 clusters

Round 2) With color C, join in a ch 1 sp near the back, ch 2, tr v-stitch in same sp as joining, *tr v-stitch* in every ch 1 sp around, join to first tr with sl st, tie off – 30 v-stitch

Round 3 - 11) Repeat rounds 1 & 2

Teen size:

Chest Piece:  G hook
Round 1) With color A - Ch 126, join to first ch with a sl st to form a ring, make sure you don’t twist – 126 ch

Row 1) Ch 1, sc2tog, ch 47, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook and in every ch down, ch 1, sl st back down row – 46 sl st

Row 2) Sc2tog, sl st in 2^nd st from hook, sl st to end, ch 1, sl st back down row

Row 3 – 125) Repeat row 2

Row 126) Sc2tog (the last ch and the first ch), sl st in both the row 1 and row 149 to the top, tie off.

Turn project over and work in opposite end of chain.

Round 1) Join in back of project, ch 1, *sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in next ch* around, join color B in last st, join to first st with sl st – 147 sc

Skirt: I hook

Round 1) With color B, join in back, BegTrCl, ch 1, skip 2 st, *TrCl, ch 1, sk 2 st* around, join to  BegTrCl with sl st, tie off -  49 clusters

Round 2) With color C, join in a ch 1 sp near the back, ch 2, tr v-stitch in same sp as joining, *tr v-stitch* in every ch 1 sp around, join to first tr with sl st, tie off – 49 v-stitch

Round 3 - 30) Repeat rounds 1 & 2

***How to adjust size***

-          To adjust size, you will make a chain that wraps around the person’s chest (under the breasts). This is Round 1.

-          For Row 1, you will chain until the length comes up from under the breast and covers them completely. You will then follow the instructions as they go until you reach the skirt.

-          For round 1 before the start of the skirt, you will count your total stitches and see what they are divisible by and to make sure your end result is divisible by three, otherwise you will end up with a cluster in round 1 that doesn’t quite have the same number of stitches separating it. It’s all about the math.

-          For the final rounds (which determine the length) you will just keep repeating rounds 1 and 2 until the garment is long enough for you.