Make sure you check out the Ravelry listing HERE - add it to your favorites, make up a hat and add a photo or, if you really like the hat, buy the PDF on Ravelry for just $2.50 which will ensure you ALWAYS have it even if I ever discontinue the pattern. The PDF also includes the actual graph for those of you who prefer to use a graph rather than written instructions. If you don't want to buy the PDF just scroll on down and get the free version on my blog. :)
One last note: A big thank you to my friend Sarah. She contributed to the Valentine's Day graph designs I've been releasing lately, even working up some of the patterns for me and letting me use her photos when I was sick and unable to crochet! <3 She has not only designed the graphs for some of my hats but inspired many of the graphs I've created!
Hook: I
(toddler); J (young child to adult – refer to notes)
Gauge: 3
rounds & 3st = 1”
Material: Red Heart Super Saver OR Loops & Threads Impeccable
Material: Red Heart Super Saver OR Loops & Threads Impeccable
Hints & Tips:
-
For toddler use an I hook and start the graph
after round 7 (skip round 8).
-
For infant, also use an I hook, skip round 5 so
that you only have 48 dc and only repeat to round 6 ending with 20 rounds – you
may want to start graph at 8 st instead of 14 like is written.
-
For adult, repeat round 6 - 9
-
Pattern is written in older child size.
Abbreviations/stitches:
-
Ch – chain
-
Dc – double crochet
-
Sl st – slip stitch
-
Fpdc – front post double crochet
-
Fphdc – front post half double crochet
-
St – stitch
Round 1) With
MC, using magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc in circle, pull tight and join to first st
with sl st – 12 dc
Round 2) Ch 2,
2 fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 24 dc
Round 3) Ch 2,
*fpdc around next st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl
st – 36 dc
Round 4) Ch 2,
*fpdc around next 2 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl
st – 48 dc
Round 5) Ch 2,
*fpdc around next 3 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl
st – 60 dc
Round 6 – 8)
Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 9) Ch 2,
fpdc around next 14 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 6 st, change to MC,
fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 10) Ch
2, fpdc around next 14 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 6 st, *change to
CC2, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC*, fpdc around next 3 st, repeat from
*-* once more, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 11) Ch
2, fpdc around next 16 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, *change to MC,
fpdc around next st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 4 st*, repeat from *-*
once more, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st 60 dc
Round 12) Ch
2, fpdc around next 16 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC,
fpdc around next st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 9 st, change to MC, fpdc
around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 13) Ch
2, fpdc around next 16 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC,
fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc
around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 14) Ch
2, fpdc around next 14 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 6 st, change to MC,
fpdc around next st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc
around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 15) Ch
2, fpdc around next 14 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 6 st, change to MC,
fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc
around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 16) Ch
2, fpdc around next 17 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC,
fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC2,
fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl
st – 60 dc
Round 17 – 20)
Ch 2, fpdc around next 17 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to
MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC,
fpdc around to end, join to first st with sls t – 60 dc
Round 21) Ch
2, fpdc around next 18 st, change to CC1, fpdc around next 4 st, change to MC,
fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 22) Ch
2, fpdc around next 19 st, change to CC2, fpdc around next 2 st, change to MC,
fpdc around to end, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc
Round 23) Ch
1, fphdc around to end, join to first st with sl st and tie off – 60 hdc
<3
ReplyDeleteSo cute! Thanks! Manda
ReplyDeleteOn row 12 it doesnt tell you which color to change to after the second color change from the MC. It just says CC but not 1 or 2 after it.
ReplyDeleteIt's CC2 (because it's the heart). I will add the number. You can also refer to the graph for additional help.
DeleteWow! I need to start graphing! Thanks for this pattern
ReplyDeleteHi, I want to make the infant size so I applied the changes per your suggestion: "For infant, also use an I hook, skip round 5 so that you only have 48 dc and only repeat to round 6 ending with 20 rounds – you may want to like is written. " My confussion comes in the rounds after that lines 12-15, I don't know how to adjust the stitches to go along with starting the graph at 8 st instead of 14...can you help me figure this out?
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for this pattern, It's so cute, love it!
Hopefully I can help :) So, because you're starting off with 48 stitches instead of 60, you'll want 6 less stitches on each side (to account for the 12 less). So when you go to do round 9, you'll take the 14 in the written pattern and subtract 6 and that will give you the new place to start the color changes. :)
Delete