Be Mine Graph Hat

Going along with the same theme as last week... how about another Valentine's Day related graph hat? This one features hearts that go up and down in a pattern. It can be made in a variety of colors and worn all winter long! This is a thick hat, so it's perfect for the cold month of February and, if you're in a cold state like I am... well into May!! If you've been following my graph hats over the past year, you'll notice that the pattern isn't the same as it was with my first, or even second or third! It's an evolution of the graph hat, for sure. As I've made more and more, I've developed easier ways of making the hat. I've not reached a point where ONE set of written instructions with minor tweaks that are written into the notes can make the same pattern work for all sizes. Awesome right? And even better... this method can work with ALL of the graph hats I've released, you just have to plug in that graph to these instructions/methods. :)

Also, if you really like this pattern, you can purchase it for a low fee of $2.50 which will add it to your Ravelry library so you'll never lose it and can easily print it. This means that if I ever retire the pattern, you'll still have a copy saved that you'll never lose. :) In addition to that, the actual graph will be included in the PDF for those of you who prefer to read the graph rather than the written instructions. You can make this purchase HERE.

Anyways, enjoy another freebie!

Hook: I (toddler); J (young child to adult – refer to notes)

Gauge: 3 rounds & 3st = 1”
Material: Red Heart Super Saver OR Loops & Threads Impeccable

Hints & Tips:

-          This pattern was written for young child, ages 4-8; if you’d like to make this hat for a preteen to adult, round 6 – 11 will need to be round 6 – 13 (which adds two additional rounds before you start the hearts) – from there you will continue the pattern as written.

-          For toddler, 1-3, use an I hook and follow the pattern as written.

-          For infant, skip round 5 so that you only have 48 dc and cut off the last heart in the graph. The written instructions will still work but won’t match exactly because the instructions have 7 hearts, and a hat for an infant with only 48 stitches will only have 6 hearts. Make sure to follow the graph attached at the bottom to make the modifications.

Abbreviations/stitches:

-          Ch – chain

-          Dc – double crochet

-          Sl st – slip stitch

-          Fpdc – front post double crochet

-          Fphdc – front post half double crochet

-          St – stitch

Round 1) Using magic circle, ch 2, 12 dc in circle, pull tight and join to first st with sl st – 12 dc

Round 2) Ch 2, 2 fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 24 dc

Round 3) Ch 2, *fpdc around next st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 36 dc

Round 4) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 2 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 48 dc

Round 5) Ch 2, *fpdc around next 3 st, 2 fpdc around next st* around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 6 - 11) Ch 2, fpdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 12) Ch 2, fpdc around next 10 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 11 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, fpdc in last 2 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 13) Ch 2, fpdc around next 9 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 9 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, fpdc around last 3 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 14) Ch 2, fpdc around next 2 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around last 5 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 15) Ch 2, fpdc around next st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 2 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around last 4 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 16) Ch 2, fpdc around next st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 3 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next 7 st, change to MC, fpdc around last 4 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 17) Ch 2, fpdc around next 2 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 5 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next 5 st, change to MC, fpdc around last 5 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 18) Ch 2, fpdc around next 3 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around next 13 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next 3 st, change to MC, fpdc around last 6 st, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 19) Ch 2, fpdc around next 4 st, *change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around next 15 st*, repeat from *-* 3 times, change to CC, fpdc around next st, change to MC, fpdc around last 7 st, join to first st with sl st 6- dc

Round 20 – 21) Ch 2, fpdc around ever st around, join to first st with sl st – 60 dc

Round 22) Ch 1, fphdc around every st around, join to first st with sl st and tie off  – 60 hdc